Final note from Dave...

Well, we are all back in Anchorage now, the tents are dry and the last bites of cheese have been tossed in the trash. This trip was difficult in many ways yet very rewarding and inspiring in others. After Bills incident I cut his knot out of the rope and we carried it to the summit in his honor, a tradition I hope to never due again.
This group was great from the get go and everyone had a wonderful attitude despite long storm days and the long hike out. I would like to specifically give my condolences to Bills family and let them know I am here if they ever want to talk or need anything from me.
Thanks to everyone for there posts and positive vibes throughout the expedition. I hope every one has a great summer and takes advantage of every chance they have to live life to the fullest. Life is fragile indeed and no one is promised tomorrow, so tell your family and friends you love them and LIVE! keep on climbing!

Dave

Back in Anchorage

The guys are all back in Anchorage, and they still like each other after a lot of days together. I'll have Dave A. post a post trip dispatch to sum it all up, but he and Jacob took off to go rock climbing in the sun this afternoon.

Almost to Base Camp

I just got a call, and our boys are on their way to base camp, and just passed thru Camp 1. They've got about 6 miles to go, and the infamous "Heartbreak Hill" to climb to get to the airstrip. It will probably be an early morning fly out for the crew on Wednesday.

Coming Home

Dave called from 14,200 camp last night(monday) and was planning on travelling down during the night and expected to reach base camp by this morning. They'll generally choose to travel at night to take advantage of the cold temps that freeze the snow surface and make travelling down a bit easier. It's a long day/night, but they'll be moving pretty fast coming down.

The West Buttress of Denali from out the plane window today. the snowy basin in the middle of the picture is the 14,000 ft basin where Camp 3 is.

If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you can actually see the small dots that are tents at Camp 3. The trail up to the fixed lined heads up and left from camp and is just visible in the larger image.

Summit!!

Jacob and Kevin are back in high camp after reaching the summit on a beautiful day! Everyone is now tucked in bed at high camp, and looking forward to the showers and beers that await them back in town. It has been an eventful, tragic trip and it's good to see the team got some people to the summit today.

Kevin's family and I flew over the mountain this afternoon in a friend's plane, and we were able to watch the guys on their last few steps to the top. It was an amazing day, and while I'm sure they wished that our noisy plane would go away, we were able to share a bit of their day vicariously through the window of a plane speeding by.

Tomorrow they'll get up and start down the mountain, they should be in base camp by Tuesday or Wednesday. It goes pretty quick on the way out.

Here is a view from the summit, which Todd shot in 2007. It is a pretty spectacular place...

Acclimating at High Camp

Jacob got Sat phone duty tonight, and just called to say that they were all resting up for a summit push tomorrow. Jacob is going to take off with Kevin tomorrow at around 8:30am if the weather holds for them. Giles has a bit of frostnip on a few fingers, and to be safe won't be attempting the summit. Steve is still deciding if he has it in him to push on for this last big day. Everyone is doing alright, but feeling the effects of living at high altitude.

Wish them luck for a safe successful day tomorrow.

High Camp!

Dave just called from High Camp!

At over 17,000 ft/5,200 meters it is a beautiful, cold, amazing place. They are doing well and are settled in to this new altitude, although everyone is a bit tired from a big day. Establishing high camp often requires climbers to dig deep, as the workload of cutting enough snow blocks out of the firm snow up there is taxing. Snow blocks are stacked on one another to create walls high and thick enough to protect their tents from the ferocity of the upper mountain winds.


Giles got a bit of frost nip on some fingers, so they've got to see how that goes tomorrow morning before making any decisions about going up to the summit. Dave will call again in the morning and let us know how they are doing, and what they decide to do. They have all earned a well deserved night's sleep, as the move to high camp is a long, tough day.

Finally a bit of a break in the wind

The wind settled down for a while yesterday afternoon after beating climbers up all over the mountain for the last several days. Dave called late last night saying they were all doing well, and had finally be able to go down to get their cache of food from Windy Corner. It was great to pick up some more supplies, including their coffee resupply and 200 slices of bacon. It was also a bit emotional as they passed by the spot where Bill passed away only a week ago.

The break in the wind also allowed the Park Service helicopter to bring Bill off the mountain and begin the journey back to his family.

Let's hope they've got all of their bad weather behind them and can continue up the mountain soon.

Wind Wind Wind

Wind is the story all over the mountain right now. Dave called this morning, as they were getting up from a night of tent rattling wind. A couple of tent poles snapped, but they were able to repair them, and keep everything standing. The weather had improved this morning, and the winds had died some, but the gusts hit 80 mph last night.

The weather is still forecast to be quite windy for a few more days...

Watching the wind blow...

Dave called this morning from 14k camp. They had a much deserved rest day yesterday, as they were all pretty drained physically and emotionally from the last few days. Today the wind has been blowing up to 50 mph above them on the mountain, although the weather in camp has been relatively pleasant. They are going to be hanging tight until the weather changes, which could be a few days. They are in good company now, as they have caught up to the April 27th expedition who are also waiting for the weather to change.

You can follow the links on the right to the weather forecast, as well as live views of the Alaska Range.

Up to 14,200

Jacob was able to rejoin the group after bringing Russ and John down to basecamp, and the remaining 5 climbers all moved to the 14,200ft camp yesterday. They are taking a rest day today, and still a bit shaken by the events of last Thursday. They'll spend at least 4 nights at this camp, resting and carrying loads up to prepare for the move to high camp. They appreciate all of the positive support they are receiving from all of us who can't be there with them right now.

Note from Russ McKnight

Our friend, Bill Hearne died suddenly while climbing Denali on Thursday afternoon, May 7th. Bill was with our team consisting of two professional guides, two Brits, a Kiwi and an Anchorage fireman. Highly qualified first responders began CPR and were supplemented by professional rangers within minutes without success.

Bill was living his dream on Denali at 13,500 ft and did not suffer. This is a photograph taken at our break at "Windy Corner" minutes before the mountain gods called him home.

It is my sincere wish that our team succeed in summiting in Bill's honor.

Russ McKnight

News from the Mountain

May 8, 2009
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We are profoundly saddened by the sudden and unexpected death of one of our mountaineering team members on Thursday. William (Bill) Hearne, age 61, was a participant on an eight climber team attempting the West Buttress route on Denali, which consisted of two Mountain Trip guides and six clients. On Thursday, May 7, 2009, the team carried loads of supplies from their camp at 11,200 feet, up and around a feature known as Windy Corner to deposit their loads in a buried cache site at about 13,500 feet. Bill moved well throughout the morning and seemed healthy and in good spirits at a rest stop at Windy Corner. Shortly after climbing above Windy Corner, at approximately 4:00 pm Alaska Time, he collapsed near the cache site.

Cardio pulmonary resuscitation was immediately performed by the two guides with assistance from a medically trained firefighter on the team. Further assistance was provided by two National Park Service rangers who happened on the scene. CPR was performed for over 30 minutes, but Bill never regained a pulse. Two advanced medical personnel (a nurse and a paramedic) from the NPS camp at 14,200 feet arrived at 4:40 pm and shortly thereafter, after telephone consultation with the park’s physician sponsor, Bill was pronounced deceased of apparent natural causes.

Bill came to Denali with years of mountaineering experience, including over a dozen ascents above 14,000 feet. He was an avid runner, personal trainer, and cycling instructor, having run over 50 marathons or ultra marathons.

The team and NPS personnel secured Bill’s body at a suitable helicopter landing zone at 13,500 feet in preparation for an evacuation. The Mountain Trip team is back at their 11,200 foot camp.

Our deepest sympathies are extended to Bill’s family and friends.
Bill is survived by his wife Deven and 3 adult children.
_____________________________________________________

Bill's good friend Russ McKnight, and another team member John Bodley flew off the mountain last night. The remainder of the team spent Friday at the camp at 11,200 ft processing the events of the day before. It was a difficult experience for the whole team, and the decision to continue was not easily made. The rest of the team has decided to go on in honor of Bill.

The team is hoping to move up to 14,ooo ft on Saturday, and will have an opportunity to call home that evening.

Camp 2

Dave called last night from 11,000 ft, the traditional Camp 2. Everyone is feeling good, and they are right on schedule. Today they'll take a rest day, so they are probably still sleeping right now. The team is strong and today they'll let some of their blisters heal up before carrying loads up to 13,500 ft tomorrow.

Camp 1.5

Dave called last night from 9,500 ft. They are feeling strong and have enjoyed another day of beautiful weather. They moved camp up to 9,500 ft, and plan to push up to 11,000 today. There were a couple of blisters amongst the group, but everyone is feeling good.

Camp 1

Dave Ahrens just called this evening from Camp 1 at 7,800 ft on the Kahiltna glacier. They had a beautiful warm day and everyone did great getting their giant loads of gear up the glacier. This is the day of the trip with the largest loads, as they'll eat their way thru their supplies as they move up the hill. Tomorrow they will begin the game of carrying loads of food and fuel, caching them higher on the mountain, and then moving camp up the following day.

A beautiful day in Alaska! Here's the crew outside of Talkeetna with the Alaska Range looming. (Denali is the big on on the right)

Packing up the trailer Saturday morning in Anchorage.

Base Camp

The team has enjoyed the continued beautiful sunny weather we've been enjoying in Alaska and drove up to Talkeetna yesterday morning and flew right in to base camp. They spent the afternoon in camp organizing their loads and getting ready for an early morning Sunday. They'll get up and hit the trail for Camp 1 about 5 miles up the Kahiltna glacier. It doesn't sound far, but they'll be loaded up with all of their gear, food, and fuel for a 21 day expedition so they'll earn their lunch today.

Packing for the trip

The guides are here in Anchorage packing, and getting ready to meet the rest of the crew today. Here's a couple of pictures of the work that goes into getting a 22 day expedition ready. Jacob (top) and Dave have been hard at work for a few days now...